Monday, November 2, 2009
Saturday, June 13, 2009
Rear Pan Hard Rod - I have the XL7 lifted springs, may not need the coil spacers but do need to keep the geometry in line.
Tuesday, June 9, 2009
I located a set of OME springs from an XL7 and was able to get them in with no trouble, actually I had both the lifted spring and the spacer in but could not get the factory strut to extended long enough allowing me to reassemble vehicle so it became a parts search.
I have found Tokico and KYB for $60-$80 online - affordable - the OME were about $150 but out of stock, add the spacers to replacements and the OME are in line. As for a rebuildable I would guess $250??Here is what I found out from Monores web site (only site I could find a comparison)
Factory 2001 Chevy Tracker (Suzuki GV 99-05, Tracker 98-03, GEO 90-97, Kick 96-98 - http://www.rockauto.com/, part 71591)
PART# BODY STYLE LENGTH COMPRESSED LENGTH EXTENDED LENGTH TRAVEL
71590 B7 12.25 8.75 15.25 6.5
71591 B7 12.25 8.75 15.25 6.5
171831 B7 13.25 10.5 18.5 8
The other alternative is a MONROE 171831 for a 88-96 Buick Regal, 90-94 Lumina, 88-97 Cutlass Supreme (does not have the brake line tab and picture shows a dust boot and two stud mounting cap)Also - Tokico said they are discontinuing the HB 3155 & HB3156 strut for this vehicle - but do have a few in stock
- I got the struts and they were about an 80% fit compared to the stock units.
- I had to remove the spring mount on the new longer Chevy Lumina strut, it required me to drill out the larger washer on the factory strut mount as the chrome shaft on new longer strut does not have the D style threads.
- I used the new large bolt and allen key to start the reassembly process, I also removed the longer struts rubber boot and foam cushion and replaced the original black plastic dust boot and larger support washer, everythinh fits perfectly into the strut mount.
- There are no brake hose mounts, rather than cut mine off and weld them back on possibly damaging the tube I am going to use double zip ties and hope for the best.
- The spindle mount is where this modification has a few holes in it. The bolt diameter on the new struts are approx 1/2" diameter holes where the original strut mounting holes are approx 3/8" in diameter and the new longer struts hole spaceing is about 1/16" too short to match the Trackers spinlde. I bolted the top of spinlde and used a drill to ream out the lower bolt hole to allow me to insert the second bolt.
- The new low pressurized struts clear the CV joint, clear the top of my 18 diameter rims by an inch or two and do seem to need the camber kit.
- Once I fix the passenger side brake line that I stripped relocationg in my body lift I will be able to road test vehcile and hopefully take if offroading for the first time.
Friday, May 22, 2009
Saturday, May 16, 2009
I picked up four light mounts, a high lift mount and the double axe and shovel mount, I have since added four more light mounts making the rack with lights, accessories and jack around $1200 dollars. I feel that is right on the money since I would have added the jack and mount later then the shovel and axe along with mount after that. I picked up a slick Jackson fiberglass shovel ($27) at Lowes and a red fiberglass handle axe $(30) at Lowes as well, Home Depot did not have anything that appealed to me.
- WIRING - Fuse Block
I read up on the Painless Wiring harness 70217 and went with it over the others based on a few facts: for $90 bucks it had 7 fuses or each set of lights, wires (duh?), its is weather resistant, circuit breakers and just made hooking up the auxiliary battery a snap and looked clean.
MANUAL - read here
The main reason for selecting this harness is that it ties into your factory wiring and detects when the key is on, then it powers up these accessories, this way when you shut down your vehicle all the off road lights power down as well.
I was able to locate three mouse switches on eBay for under $10 bucks which I use to control the side and rear safari rack lights. I have attached these light to the small tray above the center AC vents with both double sided tape and small stove bolts giving them a solid feel. I still need a switch for the under bumper fog lights and Pilot lights mounted to the winch guard, those will go above the stereo with the Crutchfiled supplied install kit and two driving light switches I purchased off eBay. This entire build is based off parts bought online, from far away and locally, the power of the Internet.
For all the lights I am considering going either with an isolator or with a local alternator shop I found online and have been communicating with about beefing up my alternator, a few Google searches and it appears I have a 70 to 75 amp alternator. The local shop said it is about a buck and amp for 150 amp rebuilds. I am tempted to buy one from the junk yard or online, and then have them rebuild the worse of the two so I have one to swap out, my whole build is based on the truck being replaceable and most parts would carry over should I buy another Grand Vitara or Tracker.
I have a small stock battery up front for now, the Optima red tops is a bit pricey so I will wait until mine fails. If I do the isolator I need to have matching batteries and am thinking about building system to accommodate this over time.
The roof lights and rear winch will run off a Deep Cycle auxiliary battery I have left over from my failed canoe expedition. It will be mounted in the rear with my future rear roll bar helping provide its mount, I have also added a solar battery charger and maintainer listed on this site to keep it powered, careful some only maintain and some charge the battery. The deep cycle provides power to the Painless Wiring harness that has the fuse block for the off road lights. I decided to use a deep cycle since A. I already had it and B. I did not have to run a battery isolator and expensive battery wires to the rear thus increasing the cost of this build. The rear UTV winch has a 4,000 pound pull strength, plus the wiring harness was just long enough to reach. (see winch listed in side boxes)